How to fit a garage door

Fitting a garage door is one of the most important structural tasks a homeowner can undertake because the door affects security, insulation, appearance, and the overall performance of the garage. Whether you are replacing an old door, upgrading to a modern insulated model, or installing a new door as part of a renovation, understanding how the fitting process works will help you plan the project confidently and avoid costly mistakes.

Garage doors come in several different types and each has its own installation method. Roller doors, sectional doors, up and over doors, and side hinged doors all require accurate measurements, suitable fixings, correct alignment, and safe handling of heavy components. Installing a garage door yourself is possible for some homeowners although professional fitting is often recommended due to safety concerns and the precision required.

This guide explains how garage doors are fitted, what tools and materials are needed, how to measure your opening correctly, and what to expect during the installation process. It also includes real world examples, cost considerations, planning guidance, and practical tips to help you complete a safe and successful installation.

Understanding what fitting a garage door involves

Fitting a garage door is more complex than simply attaching a set of hinges or placing a frame in an opening. A complete installation includes preparing the structure, aligning the frame, securing tracks or guides, installing springs or motors when required, sealing the perimeter, and ensuring smooth and safe operation.

Most garage doors weigh a significant amount. Some insulated steel sectional doors can weigh more than 80 kilograms even before adding hardware. This weight must be supported correctly by the frame, tracks, springs, and fixings. The door must also sit perfectly level within the opening to avoid strain on the mechanism and reduce the risk of premature wear.

A properly fitted door should move smoothly with no scraping or sudden drops. It should not allow water ingress, draughts, or daylight around the edges. It must also be safe to operate manually or electrically. Understanding these expectations helps homeowners appreciate why fitting needs to be done with care.

Who should consider fitting a garage door

Garage door fitting is suitable for confident DIY homeowners who have experience working with structural components, power tools, and heavy materials. It is also suitable for builders, joiners, and tradespeople who include garage upgrades in their renovation projects.

However many homeowners choose professional installation because garage doors require precise alignment. The springs used in up and over or sectional doors hold high tension which can be dangerous to adjust incorrectly. Electric motors must also be installed securely to avoid safety hazards.

Landlords may choose professional fitting for reliability. Homeowners installing a door as part of an extension or new build will often have their builder fit the door as part of the structural work. People who want long warranties often choose manufacturer approved installers.

How garage door fitting works

The fitting process depends on the type of door. Below is an overview of how installation works for the main garage door types used across the UK.

Roller doors

Roller doors consist of a curtain that rolls into a compact barrel above the opening. The installer fixes guide rails on both sides then fits the barrel unit at the top. The curtain is fed into the guides and rolled up or down. Most roller doors include a tubular motor that requires wiring to a control unit. The bottom edge must be level to seal properly against the floor.

Sectional doors

Sectional doors are made of several insulated panels joined by hinges. They run along vertical and horizontal tracks. Fitting involves assembling and fixing the tracks, installing torsion or extension springs, hanging the panels sequentially, and aligning the rollers within the tracks. Sectional doors require accurate measurement because small errors cause friction or jamming.

Up and over doors

These are traditional one piece doors that pivot on side arms or slide up into a canopy position. Fitting involves assembling the frame, installing pivot arms or tracks, and securing the door panel. Balancing springs are fitted to counteract the weight. Correct spring tension is essential to prevent the door from slamming shut.

Side hinged doors

These doors mount on hinges directly to the frame. Fitting requires securing the frame to the opening, ensuring correct hinge alignment, and adjusting the leaves so that they sit flush. This is often the simplest type of door to fit but still requires precision.

Measuring your garage for a correct fit

Accurate measuring is the foundation of a successful installation. If measurements are incorrect, the door may not fit or may operate poorly. You should measure:

Width: Measure between the inside faces of the pillars at three points.
Height: Measure from floor to lintel at both sides and in the centre.
Headroom: Measure from the lintel to the ceiling. Different doors require different headroom allowances.
Backroom: Measure inside the garage from the opening to the nearest obstruction.
Side room: Measure available space on each side of the opening. This is essential for sectional and roller doors.

Take note of any uneven flooring, crumbling brickwork, bowed timber frames, or obstacles. These may need repair before installation.

Real world UK installation scenarios

Replacing an old manual door

Many homeowners replace a tired up and over door with a modern insulated sectional door. The installer removes the old timber frame which may be warped then squares the opening with a new steel frame. Tracks are installed inside the garage which requires enough backroom for horizontal sections.

Upgrading to an electric roller door

A homeowner with limited headroom might choose an electric roller door. The installer removes the old canopy door and disposes of it then fixes vertical guides and mounts the barrel above the opening. Wiring is installed neatly and the curtain is tested for smooth rolling.

Fitting a door in a new build

Builders fitting a door in a new build usually install a steel or composite frame first then build the garage walls around it. This ensures perfect alignment. Once the structure is complete the door and tracks are added.

Converting a garage to a workshop

A homeowner converting the garage into a workshop might choose a thick insulated sectional door. The installer fits seals around the frame to maintain temperature and reduce draughts which improves comfort.

Tools and materials needed to fit a garage door

Tools vary by door type but commonly include drills, spirit levels, spanners, screwdrivers, fixings, drill bits, clamps, ladders, and measuring tools. Sectional and up and over doors often require winding bars for adjusting torsion springs. Roller door installations require a safe working platform because the barrel is mounted above head height.

Materials may include frame sealant, shims, steel fixings, brackets, and if needed timber packers for uneven openings. Some doors include all fixings in the kit while others require additional hardware depending on the structure of the garage.

Step by step overview of the fitting process

Although each door type has its own instructions, the general installation sequence for most garage doors follows these steps:

Step 1: Remove the old door

If replacing an existing door the first step is safe removal. Disconnect springs carefully and remove the frame. Dispose of old materials responsibly.

Step 2: Prepare the opening

Ensure the aperture is level and square. Fill gaps, repair damaged brickwork, and remove old sealant. If the opening is uneven use timber or steel packers to adjust.

Step 3: Fit the frame or guides

Roller and sectional doors rely on vertical guides or frames which must be fixed securely. Use a spirit level to ensure perfect alignment. Any misalignment will impact door movement.

Step 4: Assemble and fix tracks

Sectional doors require both vertical and horizontal tracks. These must align precisely for smooth travel. Up and over doors require pivot arms or runners which must be measured accurately.

Step 5: Install springs

Springs counterbalance the door weight. Install carefully because incorrect tension can cause accidents or strain on the mechanism. Many homeowners choose professional help for this stage.

Step 6: Hang the door or feed the curtain

Roller doors require the curtain to be fed into the guides. Sectional doors require panels to be hung one by one. Hinges and rollers must sit correctly. Side hinged leaves must be aligned evenly.

Step 7: Install motors if required

Electric motors must be fixed securely to the ceiling or barrel. Wiring must be safe and compliant. Motor settings such as travel limits must be programmed.

Step 8: Test and adjust

Open and close the door several times. Adjust seals, levels, springs, or travel limits as needed. Ensure the door closes fully with no gaps.

Step 9: Seal and finish

Apply weather seals around the frame. Seal the bottom for draught protection. Clean all surfaces and remove packaging.

Safety considerations during fitting

Garage doors are heavy mechanical systems. Safety must be prioritised during fitting. Springs in particular can be dangerous because they store tension to support the weight of the door. Never attempt to adjust springs without the correct tools or knowledge.

Ensure the work area is clear. Use stable ladders. Do not attempt to lift heavy doors alone. Wear gloves and eye protection when drilling or cutting. Disconnect power when installing electric motors.

If you suspect the door is too heavy for manual handling or if tensioning springs makes you uncomfortable, hire a professional.

Planning and building regulation considerations

Replacing a garage door like for like does not normally require planning permission. Planning is only needed if you change the appearance of the building significantly or alter the structure.

Building regulations usually do not apply when replacing a door unless electrical work is carried out. Electric motors require correct wiring and RCD protection. If your garage is part of an integral garage you must maintain a compliant fire door between the house and garage although this is separate from the external door.

Properties in conservation areas or listed buildings may require approval before altering the external appearance.

Cost considerations for fitting a garage door

Fitting costs depend on the type of door and the complexity of the installation. A basic manual up and over door may cost between £300 and £500 for installation. A roller door or sectional door often costs between £600 and £1,000 for professional fitting because of the additional components and alignment requirements.

If you fit the door yourself, the cost is only the price of the door and any additional materials. Manual doors may cost between £400 and £800. Roller doors may cost between £1,000 and £1,800. Sectional doors range between £1,200 and £2,500 depending on quality.

If repair work is needed before installation such as brick repairs or structural adjustments the cost increases. Removal of an old door may also incur a fee.

Long term benefits of correctly fitting a garage door

A well fitted garage door improves home security, reduces heat loss, and increases the value of the property. Correct alignment ensures smooth operation and reduces strain on the motor which increases lifespan. A well sealed door prevents draughts and protects items stored inside the garage. Insulated doors help maintain a stable temperature which is important for workshops or hobby rooms.

Correct fitting also reduces noise during operation which is beneficial for early morning use. Homeowners often notice an improvement in kerb appeal because a correctly aligned and well finished door enhances the front of the property.

Alternatives to full fitting

Some homeowners choose partial fitting. This means building the frame and preparing the opening themselves then hiring a professional to complete the final stages. This can reduce cost but still ensures safety and accuracy.

Another alternative is retrofitting a motor to a manual door. This is only possible if the door is compatible and in good condition. If the door is old or damaged a full replacement is better.

Some choose side hinged manual doors which require simpler installation and do not involve springs or tracks.

Troubleshooting common fitting problems

If the door rubs on one side adjust the frame or guides. If the door will not close fully check the floor level and adjust the bottom seal. If sectional panels bind in the tracks loosen the brackets and realign the tracks. If roller doors roll unevenly check guide alignment. If up and over doors are heavy or slam shut adjust spring tension or replace worn springs.

Electric motors that strain or stop midway often need limit adjustments. Remote controls that fail after fitting may need reprogramming.

When to call a professional installer

If the door is very heavy or if springs require tensioning always call a professional. If the opening is very uneven or has structural issues a professional can square and rebuild the frame. If you are installing a high security or insulated sectional door professional fitting ensures correct operation and warranty protection.

If you experience difficulty aligning tracks or programming a motor a trained installer can complete these tasks quickly.

Final thoughts

Fitting a garage door is a practical project that transforms the usability, security, and appearance of your garage. Although many homeowners can complete parts of the installation a full fit requires accuracy and safe handling of heavy components. Understanding the process from measurement to final adjustment helps you choose the right door and installation method. Whether you choose DIY fitting or professional installation you will achieve the best results by preparing the opening carefully, choosing quality materials, and following a clear step by step approach.